H53)15 THINGS I WISH I KNEW BEFORE VISITING ICELAND IN WINTER

Winter in Iceland brings Northern Lights, ice caves, frozen waterfalls and hot springs under falling snow. It also brings short days, storms, and icy roads, and many visitors arrive unprepared for them. Here are fifteen things I wish I'd known before visiting Iceland in winter. Number one is about winter driving.

Number fifteen: the days are really short.

Around the winter solstice, Reykjavik gets only around four hours of daylight, with sunrise after eleven in the morning and sunset around half past three. Plan your sightseeing around the light. Leave early, so you're at your first stop when the sun comes up, and keep the evening for hot pools and food.

Number fourteen: the light is great for photos.

The upside of the short days: the sun stays low all day, so you get hours of soft golden light and pink skies. For photographers, winter is the best season of the year.

Number thirteen: the weather changes in minutes.

Icelanders joke that if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes. In winter, it's true. Clear skies can turn into a snowstorm within an hour. Check the forecast on the Icelandic Met Office website every morning, and don't make plans you can't change.

Number twelve: the wind is more dangerous than the cold.

Gusts can be strong enough to knock people over, and they can rip a car door off its hinges if you open it carelessly. Always park facing into the wind, and hold the door with both hands. Rental companies don't cover wind damage on many basic policies, so read the insurance terms carefully.

Number eleven: check road.is and safetravel. is.

These two websites are your best friends in winter. Road.is shows which roads are open, icy, or closed, in real time. Safetravel. is posts alerts and lets you register your travel plan. Locals check them every day, and so should you.

Number ten: the highlands are closed.

The mountain roads, called F-roads, are closed in winter. That means the interior of the country is off limits unless you join a specialised super jeep tour. Stick to the Ring Road and the main routes along the coast, and check road.is before every drive.

Number nine: a four-wheel drive helps, but doesn't make you safe.

Rental cars come with winter tyres, and a four-wheel drive makes snowy roads easier. But four-wheel drive doesn't help you brake on ice. Drive slowly, leave space, and don't stop on the road for photos. That's one of the most common causes of accidents in Iceland.

Number eight: Reynisfjara beach can kill.

The black sand beach near Vík is one of the most famous sights in Iceland, and also one of the most dangerous. Sudden sneaker waves surge far up the beach without warning and can drag people into the freezing ocean. Follow the warning light system at the entrance, and never turn your back to the sea.

Later in this video: the ice cave season, and where to buy alcohol for less.

Number seven: ice caves only exist in winter.

The famous blue ice caves inside Vatnajökull glacier form and change every year. They're usually accessible from roughly November to March, and only with a certified guide. Never enter alone. Book a tour from the south coast, around Jökulsárlón, and expect the cave to look different from last year's photos.

Number six: the Northern Lights are not guaranteed.

Iceland has a long aurora season, roughly from September to April. But clouds decide everything. Stay several nights, keep your evenings free, and check the aurora forecast on the Met Office website.

Number five: check the Reykjanes peninsula before you go.

The area around Grindavík and the Blue Lagoon has seen a series of volcanic eruptions in recent years. These eruptions haven't affected flights at Keflavík Airport, but they have closed roads, the Blue Lagoon, and nearby areas at times. Check the current status before you book. Sky Lagoon near Reykjavik is a good alternative if the Blue Lagoon is closed.

Number four: do as the locals do and go to the pools.

Some of the best hot water in Iceland is also the cheapest. Every town has a public swimming pool with geothermal hot pots, and entry costs a fraction of the famous lagoons. Shower without a swimsuit before entering. It's the rule, and locals take it seriously.

Number three: buy alcohol at the airport.

Alcohol is heavily taxed in Iceland and only sold in state shops called Vínbúðin, which have limited opening hours. Do what Icelanders do: buy your drinks at the duty-free shop in the arrival hall at Keflavík before you exit.

Number two: winter is cheaper, but Christmas isn't.

Flights, hotels, and car rentals are much cheaper in winter than in summer. The exception is the period around Christmas and New Year, which is very popular. Iceland celebrates with thirteen mischievous Yule Lads and one of Europe's wildest New Year's Eve firework displays, but you'll pay for it. For the best value, go in late January, February, or early March.

Number one: be honest about your winter driving skills.

Self-driving is the most flexible way to see Iceland, but winter driving here can mean ice, darkness, strong wind, and snowstorms all on the same day. If you're not experienced, base yourself in Reykjavik and the south coast, and join guided tours for longer trips. Local drivers know the roads, so you can enjoy the views instead of staring at the ice.

For packing, waterproof outer layers matter more than a heavy coat. Bring a waterproof jacket and trousers, thermal base layers, a warm mid layer, waterproof hiking boots, a hat, and gloves. Add microspikes, small metal spikes that slip over your shoes, because paths to waterfalls and viewpoints are often covered in ice. They cost little and can prevent a nasty fall. And bring a swimsuit, because you'll be in hot water more often than you think.

For a first winter trip, five to seven days is a good length. That's enough for Reykjavik, the Golden Circle, the south coast as far as Jökulsárlón, and a few spare nights for the Northern Lights and bad weather days.

And a final tip: tap water in Iceland is some of the cleanest in the world, cards are accepted almost everywhere, and tipping isn't expected. Bring a refillable bottle and save your money for the experiences.

If you're going to Iceland for the Northern Lights, my full guide to where and when to see them this winter is on screen now. It compares Iceland to Norway, Finland, and Canada, so you can pick the best spot for your trip.